Benito's Hat

Venue: Benito’s Hat, Goodge Street

Food: Burritos

Cost: £5-6

Rating: 82%

www.benitos-hat.com

Twitter: @BenitosChat

Serving up high-quality pork, chicken and steak burritos, Benito’s Hat always has huge queues (I overheard management talk of over 500 happy customers every day) and is definitely the no.1 burrito in this part of town. Packed to the rafters with beans, rice, generous meat offerings, salad, salsa, sour cream and of course guacamole, Benito’s Hat is a staple of my takeaway lunching roster and one of my favourite spots.

Given the queues, the Hat is astonishingly rapid and efficient, with the ultimate conveyor-belt of serving responsibilities – the 6-person team includes tortilla/beans provider; meat selector; two ingredient fillers; chief wrapper and cashier. Once you learn the system, you can direct the creation of your burrito from start to finish in less than 20 seconds.

The making of the burrito is very ‘manual’ and hands-on, which extends to a few ingredients being added with hands. I once witnessed an amusing standoff between shell-shocked staff and a slightly odd female customer who asked for her burrito to be completely filled using spoons rather than hands. Quite frankly I prefer mine manual. It adds to the homemade feel.

Some additional points that should be noted:

1. Too much rice makes you bloated and drastically reduces your ability to work after a burrito. Ask for a half-spoon of rice at most to improve workability
2. The munching of complimentary taco chips is a good way to stave off hunger before you can sit down to tuck in
3. 95% of the time Benito’s Hat burritos are perfectly wrapped, which is well above average
4. Always have guacamole
5. Benito’s Hat do a wheat-free option (best to tip them off beforehand I have found), as well as tacos, salads and vegetarian options, although quite why anyone would want a vegetarian burrito is beyond me!

And to the scores…the first-ever ‘double 10’ for taste and portion size says it all. Benito’s Hat only fails to score my highest ever mark due to its workability issues (which in a sense is a compliment!) and the prevalence of burrito joints (despite standing out from the crowded market).

Taste 10

Portion size 10

Service 8

Speed 9

Originality 6

Choice 8

Workability 5

Office response 10

Value for money 7

Brand 9

Overall: 82%

Wrap It Up!

Venue: Wrap It Up!

Food: Wraps – Burritos, fajitas, roti etc

Cost: £4-6

Rating: 67%

http://www.wrapitup.co.uk/

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wrap-it-Up-World-Gourmet-Wraps/112657155458071

The latest player on the Soho wrap scene, the Wrap It Up! franchise cut its teeth in the City before moving westwards and landing in St. Annes Court with outlet number four. It certainly created a buzz with opening week discounts and successful free lunch day.

Much respect to franchise owner Faisal and his expansion tactics. They have found a good location, the brand itself is strong and Internet engagement encouraging, as was witnessed by the lengthy queue of bargain hunters seeking free feeding. Given this, there is surprisingly no current Twitter engagement. My question regarding this was met with bemusement by a member of staff, who asked me “What is Twitter?”…

As I often say, ultimately a wrap is a wrap. I like the idea behind 5 different nationalities of wrap under one roof and takeaway Fajitas are a relative rarity, but on the flip side Wrap It Up! lacks the specialisation of a Benito’s Hat or Yalla Yalla. A big positive is the tiered system of sizes and prices, so rarely found in takeaway establishments of this kind. I assume this is something designed to appeal to the female market, who do not wish to be confronted by a burrito accounting for half their body weight on a Tuesday lunchtime.

Sadly, despite having many virtues, the whole package did not quite come together.  Whilst the quality of ingredients is not in doubt, I have already experienced a Fajita and heard tale of a burrito that were not warmed through enough, while a Caribbean roti (with curried lamb) had a disappointing dough, but this may have possibly been a victim of speedy mass production on free lunch day. It is also currently quite a bleak establishment (décor wise) and lacking a little soul. 

Although I can optimistically overlook the negatives and am happy to allow time for improvement before a final conclusion, first impressions from my colleagues were not overwhelmingly positive. In short, a few small improvements might go a very long way indeed.

Taste 6

Portion size 8

Service 7

Speed 7

Originality 6

Choice 8

Workability 7

Office response 4

Value for money 6

Brand 8

Overall: 67%

Tuk Tuk

Venue: Tuk Tuk, Old Compton Street

Food: Noodle Bar

Cost: £4-5

Rating: 59%

Tuk Tuk noodle bar is certainly in no danger of setting the culinary world alight, but what it does offer is a solid, cheap and cheerful environment with a diverse range of Asian dishes.

Although primarily a restaurant for those in search of a no-fuss lunch in clean and sparse surroundings, the exterior neon lights leave you in no doubt as to their takeaway service.  The most commendable feature is the sheer extent of menu options, covering a whole swathe of Asian cuisine, from Vietnamese to Thai or Malaysian - although it probably won’t win awards for authenticity.

Whilst I am sure a sit-down meal would give a slightly different impression, in short the service was abrupt yet efficient, the food average yet sizable. Their takeaway service seems a tad chaotic, with no real process for ordering and waiting. We just grabbed a waiter and then sat ourselves down at a free table to wait for our food, admiring the iconic elephant-themed décor.

There is not too much more to say. Tuk Tuk does what it sets out to do and no more!

Taste 6

Portion size 7

Service 5

Speed 4 (judged by takeaway standards)

Originality 5

Choice 9

Workability 7

Office response 5

Value for money 6

Brand 5

Overall: 59%

Yalla Yalla

Venue: Yalla Yalla, Greens Court

Food: Beirut Street Food

Cost: £4

Rating: 78%

www.yalla-yalla.co.uk

“What’s Yalla Yalla?”

“It’s Beirut Street Food”

“Beirut Street Food??”

The Q&A session above has by no means been held just once. “Beirut Street Food” inevitably provokes an inquisitive response, as people demand to know more…and for good reason.

Set in the seedy underbelly of Soho on Greens Court alleyway is the bustling little gem Yalla Yalla, bringing a small piece of Lebanon to the heart of London. I suggest Greens Court is definitely not the type of alleyway frequently used by anyone other than people searching for Yalla Yalla or neighbouring businesses, so it really must thrive on word of mouth!

With an instantly appealing name (never underestimate), quirky interior design and most importantly serving good quality and authentic Lebanese wraps, mezze and pastries, Yalla Yalla is an essential addition to your Soho lunching roster.

I recently had the pleasure of both taking out and dining in, sampling a range of their offerings from lamb and chicken shawarmas to Soujoc sausages and manaee zaatar pastry. High standard, good value (at around the £4 mark).

Yalla Yalla suffers the same problem as a number of other Soho establishments in the queuing department. Space is at a premium and my two colleagues (HC/BG) and I were in a constant state of shuffling about the premises to avoid new customers, until in a moment of divine inspiration it dawned on us that it was easier for two of us to wait outside. 

I equally fear that seated customers might feel quite claustrophobic at busy times with the sheer volume of traffic brushing past their ears - a long counter is primarily used to exhibit the options available, resulting in a bottleneck effect for people ordering.

Nevertheless, whilst Middle Eastern/North African cuisine is by no means off the radar in Soho, Yalla Yalla’s concentration on takeaway sets it apart from the likes of Kaslik or (slightly further afield) Souk and its’ range of options distinguishes it from, say, Hummus Bros.

A very cool restaurant, Yalla Yalla is intimate enough to confirm you have stumbled off the beaten track, but busy enough to back up its quality.  Appropriate for a long lunch or evening bite as much as for its takeaway, I fully recommend you take the trip.

Taste 8

Portion size 7

Service 6

Speed 6

Originality 9

Choice 8

Workability 8

Office response 9

Value for money 8

Brand 9

Overall: 78%

Mooli's

Venue: Mooli’s, Frith Street

Food: Indian roti rolls

Cost: £4-5

Rating: 83%

www.moolis.com

facebook.com/moolis

moolis.blogspot.com

Twitter: @moolis

"We love Soho, we hope Soho loves us”.

Mooli’s burst onto the Soho scene in late 2009 and the above quote (from co-owner Mathew when I spoke with him earlier this month) encapsulates the essence of Mooli’s. They understand Soho and they understand their customers. From their innovative use of the Internet, with a growing following on Twitter and Facebook, to their originality and quality product, Mooli’s has found a niche in the market and truly stands out from the crowd.

Set up by two fine chaps  who got bored with their corporate jobs and display clear passion and pride in their venture, Moolis has fast became a hit with the Soho workforce. For those still slightly puzzled and in need of a definition, a mooli is a freshly made Indian roti roll, similar to a wrap but made from Indian flatbread and packed with intriguing ingredient combinations, either meat or veg based and complemented with salsas, chutneys and salad...if adventurous add on their poppadom bites.

Whilst the menu is not overly extensive, what it does offer is generally superb, with my personal endorsements being directed at the Punjabi goat and Goan pork filled moolis.  In the interests of a balanced review, I must admit to having issues with the chicken mooli, in that it seems to be the one mooli that consistently falls apart mid-meal and I also question the presence of apple within it.

This however should not detract from the overall high quality displayed, rapid service and clear thought behind the menu.

In a world where restaurants and other food outlets still seem to struggle to embrace 21^st century digital technology and marketing, the Mooli’s brand is as strong as any other independent establishment in Soho. Their communications are commendable, from Twitter (follow @moolis for regular tweets from Mathew – I would like to term them ‘twoolis’) and Facebook, to an impressive main website and blog, charting the history and continued rise of Mooli’s in a fun and engaging manner, such as their long search for the perfect fresh bread and a machine with which to make it, the Moolita!

Original, smart and a high standard. I do not think Mooli’s has to worry too much about Soho loving them.

Expansion must surely be on the agenda….

Taste 9

Portion size 8

Service 7

Speed 10

Originality 10

Choice 6

Workability 8

Office response 9

Value for money 6

Brand 10

Overall: 83%

TOP SCORE SO FAR!

Adagio

Venue: Adagio, Greek Street

Food: Pizza

Cost: By the weight (£4-6)

Rating: 75%

www.adagio-pizza.com

After what seems like months of delaying tactics, I finally took the short walk (with AJ) to Adagio on Greek Street. When the idea of Grabalunch was first swimming around my mind, Adagio was Soho’s newest player on the pizza scene, accosting me on my way past with free samples and pleas to step inside, but I had always wanted to experience it properly. So long has gone by that it is now becoming a Soho institution and growing franchise.

At the outset I must say that it was worth the wait. An incredible range of pizza al Taglio (the glamorous phrase for ‘baked in large rectangular trays’), clearly produced with much thought, care and invention in terms of ingredient combinations.  The pizza looks, feels, smells and most importantly tastes authentic.

However, Adagio prices its pizza by the weight, and as I had predicted this represented both its appeal and biggest problem. Appeal in that I could order three distinct 100g slices of alluring pizza, but a problem in that 300g is both expensive (over £6) and the very minimum amount an above average eater such as myself requires. I concede a regular diner could suffice with two slices for around £4.

On the other hand they do offer a free drink for orders above £5, which certainly seems a shrewd marketing tactic, and a loyalty card always goes down well in my book.

I took great pleasure in spending a good 5-6 minutes pacing the length of the counter to take in the full range of options available to me. I hope the (very attentive) staff assumed I was indecisive, but fear they just assumed slightly strange. Adagio is also not the biggest shop; so a few customers may have been equally confused by such behaviour. But for a first time, it was necessary.

In conclusion, a fantastic food offering, but one where the customer must be prepared to spend for quality and volume. I could recommend my favourite pizza to you, but I feel the joy is to choose based on look and individual instinct and I would not want to spoil that for you!

Taste 9

Portion size 6

Service 6

Speed 7

Originality 9

Choice 10

Workability 7

Office response 9

Value for money 4

Brand 8

Overall: 75%

Golden Union

Venue: Golden Union, Poland Street

Food: Fish & Chips

Cost: £5.95

Rating: 75%

GUEST COLUMNIST - CHARLIE ALMOND @charliealmond 

So I believe this is the first guest review on GALS.  I'd batter make it good... 

It was Friday and the hour hand was slowly creeping up to the magic number of 1; the time we all rejoice and consider which gluttonous feast will light up our lunchtime.  Being a Friday and feeling particularly God fearing, I suggested Fish & Chips.  Actually my girlfriend suggested it to MLB who suggested it to me, but that spoils my rhythm somewhat.

Now usually we would head across to Berwick St Market and queue up for Fish & Chips (it's actually just called Fish & Chips - there's a brand with a strong USP eh?). However, this time we were heading somewhere different, somewhere new.  Golden Union opened last year, but it's tucked away on a part of Poland Street which isn't a natural thoroughfare if you are walking west from Soho Square, so I hadn't actually seen it in the flesh before.  But when I did, I was impressed. 

Golden Union has a very simple, old school look to it - a 50s cafe style with a modern gloss, which works really well.  I'm still slightly haunted by trips to Blackpool as a kid, having to chat with the local people and going to Harry Ramsden's with all its chintzy carnations on the polyester tablecloths...so having a chippy do it so simply was good to see.

With the smell of frying fish luring us in, we queued and scanned the menu.  The regulars were all there (haddock, cod, scampi, saveloy) but also the likes of coley, pollock and rock salmon.  The coley was on special offer - £5.95 for coley & chips - thankfully too, as small cod or haddock are flogged for £5.25, add a pound for a large.  That's without chips.  You don't get that at the Welcome Chinese & Chips in West Kirby...

I digress.

Once ordered, the well oiled machine kicked in and we soon had our golden, crisp coley in our mitts, along with a 'thanks honey' from the affectionate girl behind the counter.  Easily wooed I am. 

The fish was excellent - crisp, smooth batter and even too - quite often you get big lumpy or thin exposed bits of fish.  The chips on first view looked undercooked and without that lovely soggy feeling you only get with ‘chippy’ chips (it might just be me who likes that though) BUT I was to be proved wrong.  They were perfectly cooked and the fine balance between crispy yet soft. 

We also had an AMAZING curry sauce.  Now I'm Northern in roots and enjoy my chips with curry sauce, but I know that this is just plain wrong in many people's eyes.  MLB had never tried it either, but under my firm insistence he tried and enjoyed.  If you get a chance, go curry.  You won't regret it. 

We soon polished off the food and for a minute I felt as though I wanted more.  But alas I also had an afternoon at my desk to look forward to, so I suspect any more would have given me a carbo-coma...upon reflection it was the perfect amount. 

Fish on a Friday - fantastic.

  

Taste 9

Portion size 7

Service 8

Speed 8

Originality 4

Choice 8

Workability 7

Office response 10

Value for money 5

Brand 9

Overall: 75%

Nonnolino Italiano

Venue: Nonnolino Italiano, Goodge Street

Food: Hot Carvery Sandwiches

Cost: £3.95

Rating: 71%

  

Ever since I joined the ranks of Soho professionals I have long craved to find the central London equivalent of the legendary Fuzzy’s Grub chain in the City, where City boys feast upon huge carvery sandwiches, but which sadly seems to have been a victim of the economic times (orderfuzzysgrub.co.uk). M&S Hot Food does offer something similar, but for those who have never experienced a lunchtime full carvery sandwich and are probably sceptical, I assure you it is a fine thing.

So imagine my joy when I stumbled, literally, upon the inconspicuous Nonnolino Italiano on Goodge Street (a rather large sign combined with my attention being elsewhere). Do not be fooled by the name. Although it offers pasta and traditional Italian fare, the big draw is their speciality in hot roast carvery sandwiches, in a cool, if slightly schizophrenic way.

My taste buds were sent into overdrive on a rainy Monday afternoon by a counter presenting roast beef, turkey, pork and gammon, all ready to be stuffed inside my ciabatta alongside roast potatoes, stuffing, gravy and a host of slightly unexpected vegetables – not the traditional carrots and peas I was expecting, but something a little more in keeping with the Mediterranean nature of Nonnolino.

In an amusing few minutes, I experienced a rather chaotic serving system. I was never fully able to comprehend who was in fact in charge of my sandwich, as responsibility for its creation seemed to pass between three fairly aloof serving staff, none of whom I expect would actually be able to create a roast dinner!

Nevertheless I had no complaints with the speed, portion size (though I feel I did not really test the limit of how much I could request) and great value (£3.95, though I believe beef is slightly more). What is more, I walked away with a genuine feeling of satisfaction that my long search for a carvery sandwich had drawn to a close.

Taste 7

Portion size 8

Service 5

Speed 7

Originality 9

Choice 8

Workability 6

Office response 7

Value for money 9

Brand 5

Overall: 71%