Nonnolino Italiano

Venue: Nonnolino Italiano, Goodge Street

Food: Hot Carvery Sandwiches

Cost: £3.95

Rating: 71%

  

Ever since I joined the ranks of Soho professionals I have long craved to find the central London equivalent of the legendary Fuzzy’s Grub chain in the City, where City boys feast upon huge carvery sandwiches, but which sadly seems to have been a victim of the economic times (orderfuzzysgrub.co.uk). M&S Hot Food does offer something similar, but for those who have never experienced a lunchtime full carvery sandwich and are probably sceptical, I assure you it is a fine thing.

So imagine my joy when I stumbled, literally, upon the inconspicuous Nonnolino Italiano on Goodge Street (a rather large sign combined with my attention being elsewhere). Do not be fooled by the name. Although it offers pasta and traditional Italian fare, the big draw is their speciality in hot roast carvery sandwiches, in a cool, if slightly schizophrenic way.

My taste buds were sent into overdrive on a rainy Monday afternoon by a counter presenting roast beef, turkey, pork and gammon, all ready to be stuffed inside my ciabatta alongside roast potatoes, stuffing, gravy and a host of slightly unexpected vegetables – not the traditional carrots and peas I was expecting, but something a little more in keeping with the Mediterranean nature of Nonnolino.

In an amusing few minutes, I experienced a rather chaotic serving system. I was never fully able to comprehend who was in fact in charge of my sandwich, as responsibility for its creation seemed to pass between three fairly aloof serving staff, none of whom I expect would actually be able to create a roast dinner!

Nevertheless I had no complaints with the speed, portion size (though I feel I did not really test the limit of how much I could request) and great value (£3.95, though I believe beef is slightly more). What is more, I walked away with a genuine feeling of satisfaction that my long search for a carvery sandwich had drawn to a close.

Taste 7

Portion size 8

Service 5

Speed 7

Originality 9

Choice 8

Workability 6

Office response 7

Value for money 9

Brand 5

Overall: 71%