Malletti

Venue: Malletti, Noel Street

Food: Italian pasta/pizza

Cost: £4.95/£3.95

Rating: 80%

This review of Malletti Pizzeria, to give the establishment its full and proper name, has a great deal of expectation and pressure upon it.  Not only will my regular accomplice and colleague (SB) who first introduced me to the world of Malletti’s be casting his eye over it, but he has also tipped off the staff to expect the review!

If you are on the lookout for quality Italian takeaway, look no further than Malletti’s, quite simply a Soho institution.  Once you are introduced to it, you cannot help but pass on the knowledge to others. I trust you will now do the same.

Located on Noel Street, just behind the throng of Oxford Street, the eatery serves up freshly made pastas (always one meat, one veg option), risotto, and pizzas of all descriptions. Some left-field options might include calzone, Italian sausages and bread and butter pudding. Put simply, you are not left wanting for choice.

Yet the first impression you get of Malletti’s is one of pressing your nose up against a window as the lovely Sylvia takes your order from the back of the queue winding its way down the pavement. I cannot think of another example of this custom, which just adds to the charm of the place.

Upon moving inside you are met with large signs advertising the very much-justified ‘no mobile phones’ policy (why not more widespread I ask?), violation of which can result in a strong dressing down from behind the counter….

…From the ‘godfather of pasta’.

This man sums up Malletti’s. No-nonsense service. Clear pride in the quality of his goods. In a word, authenticity.

Above all else, Malletti’s distinguishes itself on the standard of its ingredients. In a world of shortcuts and food-on-the-cheap it stands out as a beacon of quality. 

The only issue to address could be pricing, though a clear distinction should be made. My preferred option, the pasta in either meat or vegetarian guise (or a mix), is a perfectly reasonable £4.95. The pizza however, does not come cheap at £3.95 for two relatively small pieces, despite maintaining a great standard.

Nevertheless the strong customer loyalty tells you all you need to know.

I very much enjoy my frequent trips to Malletti’s, usually justifying the carbohydrate intake by visiting the day before playing a football or cricket match. The flip side to this is a full-scale post lunch malaise, as the body gets to work on the quantity of pasta I have forced it to consume. I am soon to try its thriving Soho rival Adagio, but for now it is fair to say that Malletti’s reigns supreme if you seek quality Italian lunch-to-go.

And to the marks…

Taste 9

Portion size 7 (9 pasta, 5 pizza)

Service 9

Speed 8

Originality 8

Choice 9

Workability 5

Office response 10

Value for money 7  (8 pasta, 6 pizza)

Brand 8

Overall: 80%