Adagio

Venue: Adagio, Greek Street

Food: Pizza

Cost: By the weight (£4-6)

Rating: 75%

www.adagio-pizza.com

After what seems like months of delaying tactics, I finally took the short walk (with AJ) to Adagio on Greek Street. When the idea of Grabalunch was first swimming around my mind, Adagio was Soho’s newest player on the pizza scene, accosting me on my way past with free samples and pleas to step inside, but I had always wanted to experience it properly. So long has gone by that it is now becoming a Soho institution and growing franchise.

At the outset I must say that it was worth the wait. An incredible range of pizza al Taglio (the glamorous phrase for ‘baked in large rectangular trays’), clearly produced with much thought, care and invention in terms of ingredient combinations.  The pizza looks, feels, smells and most importantly tastes authentic.

However, Adagio prices its pizza by the weight, and as I had predicted this represented both its appeal and biggest problem. Appeal in that I could order three distinct 100g slices of alluring pizza, but a problem in that 300g is both expensive (over £6) and the very minimum amount an above average eater such as myself requires. I concede a regular diner could suffice with two slices for around £4.

On the other hand they do offer a free drink for orders above £5, which certainly seems a shrewd marketing tactic, and a loyalty card always goes down well in my book.

I took great pleasure in spending a good 5-6 minutes pacing the length of the counter to take in the full range of options available to me. I hope the (very attentive) staff assumed I was indecisive, but fear they just assumed slightly strange. Adagio is also not the biggest shop; so a few customers may have been equally confused by such behaviour. But for a first time, it was necessary.

In conclusion, a fantastic food offering, but one where the customer must be prepared to spend for quality and volume. I could recommend my favourite pizza to you, but I feel the joy is to choose based on look and individual instinct and I would not want to spoil that for you!

Taste 9

Portion size 6

Service 6

Speed 7

Originality 9

Choice 10

Workability 7

Office response 9

Value for money 4

Brand 8

Overall: 75%

Golden Union

Venue: Golden Union, Poland Street

Food: Fish & Chips

Cost: £5.95

Rating: 75%

GUEST COLUMNIST - CHARLIE ALMOND @charliealmond 

So I believe this is the first guest review on GALS.  I'd batter make it good... 

It was Friday and the hour hand was slowly creeping up to the magic number of 1; the time we all rejoice and consider which gluttonous feast will light up our lunchtime.  Being a Friday and feeling particularly God fearing, I suggested Fish & Chips.  Actually my girlfriend suggested it to MLB who suggested it to me, but that spoils my rhythm somewhat.

Now usually we would head across to Berwick St Market and queue up for Fish & Chips (it's actually just called Fish & Chips - there's a brand with a strong USP eh?). However, this time we were heading somewhere different, somewhere new.  Golden Union opened last year, but it's tucked away on a part of Poland Street which isn't a natural thoroughfare if you are walking west from Soho Square, so I hadn't actually seen it in the flesh before.  But when I did, I was impressed. 

Golden Union has a very simple, old school look to it - a 50s cafe style with a modern gloss, which works really well.  I'm still slightly haunted by trips to Blackpool as a kid, having to chat with the local people and going to Harry Ramsden's with all its chintzy carnations on the polyester tablecloths...so having a chippy do it so simply was good to see.

With the smell of frying fish luring us in, we queued and scanned the menu.  The regulars were all there (haddock, cod, scampi, saveloy) but also the likes of coley, pollock and rock salmon.  The coley was on special offer - £5.95 for coley & chips - thankfully too, as small cod or haddock are flogged for £5.25, add a pound for a large.  That's without chips.  You don't get that at the Welcome Chinese & Chips in West Kirby...

I digress.

Once ordered, the well oiled machine kicked in and we soon had our golden, crisp coley in our mitts, along with a 'thanks honey' from the affectionate girl behind the counter.  Easily wooed I am. 

The fish was excellent - crisp, smooth batter and even too - quite often you get big lumpy or thin exposed bits of fish.  The chips on first view looked undercooked and without that lovely soggy feeling you only get with ‘chippy’ chips (it might just be me who likes that though) BUT I was to be proved wrong.  They were perfectly cooked and the fine balance between crispy yet soft. 

We also had an AMAZING curry sauce.  Now I'm Northern in roots and enjoy my chips with curry sauce, but I know that this is just plain wrong in many people's eyes.  MLB had never tried it either, but under my firm insistence he tried and enjoyed.  If you get a chance, go curry.  You won't regret it. 

We soon polished off the food and for a minute I felt as though I wanted more.  But alas I also had an afternoon at my desk to look forward to, so I suspect any more would have given me a carbo-coma...upon reflection it was the perfect amount. 

Fish on a Friday - fantastic.

  

Taste 9

Portion size 7

Service 8

Speed 8

Originality 4

Choice 8

Workability 7

Office response 10

Value for money 5

Brand 9

Overall: 75%

Nonnolino Italiano

Venue: Nonnolino Italiano, Goodge Street

Food: Hot Carvery Sandwiches

Cost: £3.95

Rating: 71%

  

Ever since I joined the ranks of Soho professionals I have long craved to find the central London equivalent of the legendary Fuzzy’s Grub chain in the City, where City boys feast upon huge carvery sandwiches, but which sadly seems to have been a victim of the economic times (orderfuzzysgrub.co.uk). M&S Hot Food does offer something similar, but for those who have never experienced a lunchtime full carvery sandwich and are probably sceptical, I assure you it is a fine thing.

So imagine my joy when I stumbled, literally, upon the inconspicuous Nonnolino Italiano on Goodge Street (a rather large sign combined with my attention being elsewhere). Do not be fooled by the name. Although it offers pasta and traditional Italian fare, the big draw is their speciality in hot roast carvery sandwiches, in a cool, if slightly schizophrenic way.

My taste buds were sent into overdrive on a rainy Monday afternoon by a counter presenting roast beef, turkey, pork and gammon, all ready to be stuffed inside my ciabatta alongside roast potatoes, stuffing, gravy and a host of slightly unexpected vegetables – not the traditional carrots and peas I was expecting, but something a little more in keeping with the Mediterranean nature of Nonnolino.

In an amusing few minutes, I experienced a rather chaotic serving system. I was never fully able to comprehend who was in fact in charge of my sandwich, as responsibility for its creation seemed to pass between three fairly aloof serving staff, none of whom I expect would actually be able to create a roast dinner!

Nevertheless I had no complaints with the speed, portion size (though I feel I did not really test the limit of how much I could request) and great value (£3.95, though I believe beef is slightly more). What is more, I walked away with a genuine feeling of satisfaction that my long search for a carvery sandwich had drawn to a close.

Taste 7

Portion size 8

Service 5

Speed 7

Originality 9

Choice 8

Workability 6

Office response 7

Value for money 9

Brand 5

Overall: 71%

I Camisa & Son

Venue: I Camisa & Son, 61 Old Compton Street

Food: Sandwiches

Cost: £3-4

Rating: 81%

http://www.camisa.co.uk/

Looking back, it may well be that my first visit to I Camisa on a rainy Friday afternoon spurred me to begin Grabalunch.  An authentic Italian deli set in the heart of Soho on Old Compton Street and packed to the rafters with fresh Italian goods, the place is always teeming with customers, including (tellingly) many an Italian voice.

With vast quantities of meats, cheeses, olives, pastas and breads on show, it represents the ultimate antithesis to the pre-packaged sandwich culture of Pret and Eat. Personally I often feel a surge of excitement when confronted with delicatessens and the wealth of choice on display, as though each meat or cheese is competing with its neighbour for your favour.

Despite principally peddling raw ingredients, the non-advertised and freshly produced sandwiches win my lunchtime affection.  Having waited patiently behind middle-aged eccentric Italian women ordering their weekly supplies of ravioli, chilli olives and salami, upon reaching the counter you can select your individual bread of choice and sandwich size through the always-pleasing method of pointing and gesturing with your hands.

Stuffed full of quality ingredients and made to order with a minimum of fuss as expected when dealing with Italians, I am also fairly certain prices are made up on the spot. Or at least I would like to think so, as it adds to the charm.

But to give you a guide, my enormous ciabatta with parma ham, mozzarella, pesto and tomato came to £3.50, representing incredible value. I challenge anyone to argue a legitimate case for a pre-packaged sandwich over this.

Taste 9

Portion size 10

Service 6

Speed 6

Originality 7

Choice 10

Workability 9

Office response 8

Value for money 9

Brand 7

Overall: 81%

Doughmasters

Venue: Doughmasters, Charlotte Street

Food: Rolled Sandwiches…i.e. wraps

Cost: £3.65-£4.25

Rating: 63%

http://www.doughmasters.co.uk/

First and foremost I must take issue with Doughmasters’ bold claim to be the “Creators of the popular rolled sandwiches”.  In my humble opinion these ‘rolled sandwiches’ are suspiciously similar to what are commonly known in the industry as ‘wraps’. Wraps masquerading as ‘rolled sandwiches’ through a shrewd marketing tactic does not hide the fact that they are indeed…wraps.

I also imagine the Mexican community would raise their eyebrows at the assertion that the concept of the ‘rolled sandwich’/‘wrap’ was “born in the UK in late 1995”…in Soho…in Doughmasters.

Check out the (actually very impressive) website www.doughmasters.co.uk in order to make your own minds up on the matter. Let me know if you share my views.

I was actively seeking a wrap when I stumbled past Doughmasters on Charlotte Street. Taking a friend’s (PS) recommendation on board, I plumped for the spicy chicken, cheese and spinach combination, which was a decent offering and one of a multitude of possibilities.

Their cooking device also intrigued me – the “two-step table top electric oven”. It was certainly unusual and my subsequent research tells me that it won Gold Medals at international invention exhibitions.

Yes, I too would like to visit an international invention exhibition…

Sadly the service and portion size did nothing to break my ponderings about the differences between a ‘wrap’ and a ‘rolled sandwich’. I have spent far too long thinking about this, so as they say in the film industry…that’s a wrap.

Taste 6

Portion size 5

Service 4

Speed 7

Originality 6

Choice 8

Workability 8

Office response 5

Value for money 6

Brand 8

Overall: 63%

Malletti

Venue: Malletti, Noel Street

Food: Italian pasta/pizza

Cost: £4.95/£3.95

Rating: 80%

This review of Malletti Pizzeria, to give the establishment its full and proper name, has a great deal of expectation and pressure upon it.  Not only will my regular accomplice and colleague (SB) who first introduced me to the world of Malletti’s be casting his eye over it, but he has also tipped off the staff to expect the review!

If you are on the lookout for quality Italian takeaway, look no further than Malletti’s, quite simply a Soho institution.  Once you are introduced to it, you cannot help but pass on the knowledge to others. I trust you will now do the same.

Located on Noel Street, just behind the throng of Oxford Street, the eatery serves up freshly made pastas (always one meat, one veg option), risotto, and pizzas of all descriptions. Some left-field options might include calzone, Italian sausages and bread and butter pudding. Put simply, you are not left wanting for choice.

Yet the first impression you get of Malletti’s is one of pressing your nose up against a window as the lovely Sylvia takes your order from the back of the queue winding its way down the pavement. I cannot think of another example of this custom, which just adds to the charm of the place.

Upon moving inside you are met with large signs advertising the very much-justified ‘no mobile phones’ policy (why not more widespread I ask?), violation of which can result in a strong dressing down from behind the counter….

…From the ‘godfather of pasta’.

This man sums up Malletti’s. No-nonsense service. Clear pride in the quality of his goods. In a word, authenticity.

Above all else, Malletti’s distinguishes itself on the standard of its ingredients. In a world of shortcuts and food-on-the-cheap it stands out as a beacon of quality. 

The only issue to address could be pricing, though a clear distinction should be made. My preferred option, the pasta in either meat or vegetarian guise (or a mix), is a perfectly reasonable £4.95. The pizza however, does not come cheap at £3.95 for two relatively small pieces, despite maintaining a great standard.

Nevertheless the strong customer loyalty tells you all you need to know.

I very much enjoy my frequent trips to Malletti’s, usually justifying the carbohydrate intake by visiting the day before playing a football or cricket match. The flip side to this is a full-scale post lunch malaise, as the body gets to work on the quantity of pasta I have forced it to consume. I am soon to try its thriving Soho rival Adagio, but for now it is fair to say that Malletti’s reigns supreme if you seek quality Italian lunch-to-go.

And to the marks…

Taste 9

Portion size 7 (9 pasta, 5 pizza)

Service 9

Speed 8

Originality 8

Choice 9

Workability 5

Office response 10

Value for money 7  (8 pasta, 6 pizza)

Brand 8

Overall: 80%

Mizuna Salad

Venue: Mizuna Salad, Charlotte Street

Food: Salads (and a whole lot more...Jackets, Sandwiches, Lasagne....)

Cost: £3.75

Rating: 79%

www.mizunasalad.com

Mizuna Salad may not look like too much from the outside, but do not be fooled. The choice and value for your pound is mighty impressive.  A family owned little gem set on fashionable Charlotte Street, Mizuna is the place to come for a hearty salad, but also offers anything from sandwiches and jacket potatoes to specials including lasagne and curries.

Entering Mizuna it is abundantly clear the place is not quite big enough for a comfortable fit. Slightly cobbled together, but in a way that gives it a real home-made feel, the till is plonked smack bang in front of the entrance, around which customers mill about and bump into each other awkwardly.

After you have shuffled your way through bodies, and somehow without ever really joining a defined queue (although I am sure the intention is one queue for salads and one for everything else), you reach the well-marshalled serving counter.

Although I have sampled most options, I am always drawn to the salads and in particular the chicken Caesar salad, rustled up from scratch in no time at all. Generous in size, a good mix of ingredients, certainly tasty and with the added bonus of a sense of healthy eating, regardless of the levels of Caesar dressing!

Be sure to bump into a few more customers while deciding on an appropriate waiting spot - I once had to shift my position four times during one such wait - and then inevitably a few more on the way to the till, before paying a very reasonable £3.75 (or something similar for any other selection).

Mizuna Salad could be described as ‘the people’s takeaway’. In short, it represents good quality at an affordable price for under-pressure media types.

Taste 8

Portion size 8

Service 7

Speed 9

Originality 7

Choice 10

Workability 8

Office response 7

Value for money 9

Brand 6

Overall: 79%